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I couldn’t help but notice flowers blooming all over Copenhagen Fashion Week this season. Not out of the ground, but in the front row—an obvious continuation of 2023’s rosette trend.
Designers from Magda Butrym to Sandy Liang made rosettes 2023’s dominant floral motif when they embellished their collections with silky rosebuds and cascading 3-D petals earlier this year. And then last week at Copenhagen Fashion Week’s spring/summer 2024 runways, despite an unusually dreary forecast, street style collectively channeled the season’s usual energy through outfits with rosette pins, chokers, belts, and embellished tops. It was fashion psychology in action: As Browns Fashion buying director Ida Petersson told me,“Layering and dopamine dressing was in full force to counteract the unpredictable summer weather.” If an oversized coat or a subdued suit had to be worn, it was going to come with a verdant accessory. I had to agree that each satin flower I saw perked up the entire look.
The 3-D roses (and camellias, and daisies) pinned to jacket collars and tied on ribbon chokers throughout the week didn’t feel like a one-season-only embellishment. Translating florals from prints to folded fabric is elegant and playful at once—especially when following street style’s lead. In another vote for their staying power, I even saw the buds return in pastel yellow and blue on dresses in OperaSport’s spring/summer 2024 collection.
Below, a mix of clothing, jewelry, and accessories embellished with the best of the year’s rosette trend.
The Rosette Choker
If Copenhagen Fashion Week guests were practicing the Coco Chanel rule of accessorizing ( taking off at least one thing before leaving the house), their rosette chokers always made the final edit. I spotted at least three people beribboned with rosette chokers each day of the event, in shades from neutral ivory and black to blush mauves and dusty blue. They turned up to soften menswear-inspired suits and sporty rugby shirts—bringing a sense of whimsy to dressing for what’s essentially a very stylish work summit.
The Rosette-Accented Ready-to-Wear
Recent runways and collections from a variety of designers—Blumarine, Sandy Liang, Rodarte, Prada, Magda Butrym—deserve credit for reviving 3-D floral appliqués across every type of garment imaginable. The cut of a sleeve or the drape of a skirt can transform the rosette’s effect from quirky and girly to moody and vaguely gothic.
Guests I saw across Copenhagen Fashion Week overwhelmingly took the first route—either because pop culture’s summer of girlhood has gone global, or because each brilliant flower was a counterweight to the gray skies and puddles waiting outside each show. I was inspired to shop for tops, vests, and matching sets with the same optimistic spirit, summer-to-fall layering potential, and runway credentials below.
The Rosette Brooches and Belts
Brooches set with layers of chiffon and satin petals, or ribbon belts strung with artificial flowers, bloomed wherever they were planted in the outfits I saw. The key at Copenhagen Fashion Week was to contrast the romance of the flower with extra-loose denim or a three-piece, oversized suit. Some of my favorite looks came with a hidden rosette, pinned elegantly into a low bun or on the side of a top-handle bag. Brooches don’t come off as Emily Gilmore-prim when they’re insouciantly combined with less feminine pieces.
Petals meant for pinning or draping on to jackets, dresses, and bags can come from every end of the designer spectrum. I tracked down a few impulse-buy-worthy ribbon belts set with papery chiffon petals, plus a vintage Missoni interpretation set with sequins and safety pins for a little punk contrast. Chanel’s iconic flower brooch with petals made from folded tweed offers an heirloom route into the trend despite it technically being a camellia, not a rose.
Fashion Commerce Editor
Halie LeSavage is the fashion commerce editor at Harper’s BAZAAR. Her style reporting covers everything from reviewing the best designer products to profiling emerging brands and designers. Previously, she was the founding retail writer at Morning Brew and a fashion associate at Glamour.